Ever wondered how we justify our skincare claims or what they mean?  One of the main requirements for all advertising, whether for cosmetic or therapeutic products is to make sure the information is accurate and not misleading. At Ego Pharmaceuticals, we ensure that all claims we make are substantiated with relevant testing and/or scientific literature.

To make sure our products are suitable for sensitive skin, we formulate them without common irritants such as fragrance, soap and colour.  We also have the products tested through an external laboratory for irritation and sensitisation potential, using a method called Repeat Insult Patch Testing (RIPT).  This is conducted on a large group of study participants (100 being the most typical number) and involves applying the product to the skin and covering it with a semi-occlusive patch (a patch that is open on two sides, allowing some air to flow) for a period of 24 hours.  The skin is then assessed.  This process is conducted multiple times over a three week period.  This is what we refer to as “dermatologically tested”.

When claiming that a product is “hypoallergenic” which means “not likely to cause an allergic reaction”¹ we take the testing a step further.  Standard RIPT uses semi-occlusive patches but for hypoallergenicity testing, fully occlusive patches are used.  These patches don’t allow air or water in so the skin is exposed to the product under exaggerated use conditions.

The claim, “pH balanced” refers to the product having a pH in a range similar to that of the skin, so that it’s compatible with the natural pH of the skin.

When a product is formulated, it is sent off to undergo a series of standard tests to assess not only safety but also efficacy.  For example if it is a moisturiser, we will send it off for hydration testing, transepidermal water loss testing or both.  This involves testing the skin using either a corneometer (for determining the hydration level of the skin surface) or tewameter (for measuring the amount of water lost from the skin surface) before the product is applied and 24 hours after.  By analysing the improvement in skin hydration or reduction of transepidermal water loss 24 hours after application we can determine whether the product provides “24 hour hydration”. 

At Ego, all claims are reviewed by the Scientific Communications team who review the evidence and relevant regulations to determine whether the claim can be made.

Cosmetic skincare needs to meet the definition of a cosmetic: 

“A substance designed to be used on any external part of the body – or inside the mouth – to change its odour or appearance, cleanse it, keep it in good condition or protect it.”²

Any claim for a cosmetic that goes into depth about physiological changes within the body or skin strays outside this cosmetic definition and falls into therapeutic territory which is prohibited.  With only a few very specific exceptions, any product making therapeutic claims is classified as a therapeutic good and governed by the TGA.  There are strict guidelines and regulations that need to be followed when advertising these types of products. 

Hopefully this gives you some insight into how we formulate our products, how we back up claims and how we stay compliant.